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June 1997 |
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June 1997 |
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by Gregg J. Donaldson, TT Contributing Author
You say you like to create with fabric? Give these ideas a run on your Singer!!!
Ms. Jean Shortall is a local fashion designer based in Arlington Virginia. Her business is called Wareables, which are sewing patterns for people with disabilities. Here are her tips for custom made clothes.
Wheelchair Users
- 1). Sleeve and shoulder shapes need to be loose enough through the shoulder and upper arm to allow ease of movement. This is important for all wheelchair users. Sleeve openings need to fit closely at the wrist to avoid rubbing the wheels. They can be designed to detach for easy laundering or replacement. Avoid loose cuffs and ruffles, try to keep close fit at wrist, if cuffed it should be buttoned. Recommended treatments include raglan, kimono, dolman, drop shoulder, flanges and pleats.
- 2). Shorter jacket lengths will not bunch up and looks neater when seated.
- 3). If a person is a full time wheelchair user, pants need special shaping so that the waist does not pull down and gap at center back and bunch up at center front. However, it looks odd if the person is standing. Pant hems need to be longer in the front and shorter in the back so when a person is seated, the pant leg covers the ankle and appears to hang straight. Pant legs can have invisible zippers placed in side seam or inseam that provide easy access for leg bag maintenance and also wider pant legs to cover bag.
- 4). Skirts and pants can be designed with yokes or stitched down pleats through the hips.
- 5). Soft flannel or silk lining in seat area of pant/skirts help avoid pressure sores.
- 6). Wrap skirts are helpful for dressing and toileting ease.
Crutch and Forearm Crutch Users
Crutches pull clothes askew, they can cause clothes to bunch up under the armpits.
- 7). Women may prefer one piece dresses, shirt and pants or sweater and pants are a good option for men. Jackets can be especially troublesome. Ms. Shortall recommends jackets with sleeves other than the traditional set-in sleeve. These styles have extra wearing ease so their is minimal pulling across the back and less likely to bunch up under armpits. Gussets can be inserted in the underarm seam of standard shirt providing extra for freedom of movement.
For Ease of Donning/Doffing:
- 8). eliminate as many fastenings as possible.
- 9). Most clothes can be made with hidden Velcro fasteners.
- 10). Zippers with large pulls.
Ms. Jean Shortall has designed a men's pants pattern with a drop front and Velcro fasteners. They are contoured for a person who does a lot of sitting, great for wheelchair users. She also has plans for other patterns in the works, for both men and women. Her Internet address is:
www.blvd.com/wearables.
Her address is:
2200 North George Mason Drive,
P.O. Box 7407,
Arlington, VA 22207.
Telephone: 703-841-7274.
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